Booth assembly and teardown
How GUAC, CHIPS and SALSA 2 go up and come down, in order, with the checks the factory guide leaves out.
Photo slots are placeholders until we shoot our own. The steps below are Photobooth Supply Co's written instructions, condensed into our vocabulary. Their renders show a factory booth; ours has the wrap, the booth-top flash mount and the sharing station, so the photos need to be of our kit at our events.
Order of work in the room
Before a single knob is turned
What goes where, and in what order
- Find the venue contact and the outlets first. The outlet decides where the booth goes, not the other way round, unless the event is running on battery alone, in which case the booth goes where the room and the light want it. Decide which before you unload, because the answer changes where everything else lands.
- The battery goes inline whether there is an outlet or not. Wall to the Ecoflow, Ecoflow to the booth. That is how we run every event: the battery conditions the venue's power and bridges any dropout, so a flicker on an old circuit never reaches the camera or the printer. If the outlet is far from where the booth wants to be, the extension runs to the battery and the battery sits beside the booth.
- Unload fully before assembling anything. Fewer trips through a dressed room, and you can see what you have.
- Backdrop up first, level, weighted, tensioned. Everything else is positioned relative to it.
- Then the booth, at the guest mark distance from the backdrop. Tape the mark before the booth goes on it.
- Then lights, then CHIPS, then the sharing station, then the prop table.
- Cables taped down last, once nothing is going to move.
The factory guide starts with the base plate. In a real room the base plate is step four, because where it goes depends on three things you have not checked yet.
Every step below that touches a flash starts with the same two checks: the flash cover is on until the flash is mounted, and the wireless receiver is off before the first test fire. The first protects the tube. The second is a promise we make to every client with a photographer.
GUAC, the Luxelle booth
Base, poles, head, flash, power. In that order
What comes out of the case
- Base plate
- Two poles
- GUAC head, with the camera and iPad already installed
- Godox MS300V flash, reflector dome, umbrella, flash pole
- 25 ft AC power cable
- 10 ft printer USB cable, if wired printing
- Phillips screwdriver
The camera stays installed in the head for normal transport. It only comes out for a lens change or a repair.
Step one: base plate and poles
- Base plate on the floor, longer half facing away from the backdrop and away from where guests will stand.
- Run the AC cable under the base plate and up through the center hole. Feed about two arms' length through before going on, or you will be pulling cable through three poles later. If wired printing, the printer USB cable goes through the same hole.
- Run the cable up through the first pole.
- Seat the first pole on the base plate and tighten both knobs at the same time until finger tight. Then loosen and set the knobs into an X shape.
- Repeat for the second pole.
- Leave 1 to 2 inches of cable coming out the top of the poles.
The X shape on the knobs is not cosmetic: it is what lets the next part seat. If the head or the CHIPS platform will not sit, check the knobs first.
Step two: the head
- Loosen the screw on the back of the head and remove the rear door. Put it somewhere flat.
- Lift the head and plug the AC cable, and the printer USB if used, into the bottom of it.
- Place the head on the top pole with the iPad and camera facing the backdrop, which is toward where guests stand.
- Fully tighten the knobs inside the head.
- Plug the AC cable into the Ecoflow, and the Ecoflow into the outlet. The booth never plugs straight into venue power.
- Check the Belkin surge protector inside the head: "Protected" lit green, and no light on "Not Grounded". If "Not Grounded" lights, that outlet is unsafe for the booth. Find another.
- Camera power switch on. Confirm it has power.
The surge protector check still matters with the battery inline. It confirms the head is receiving clean, grounded power from the Ecoflow. If "Not Grounded" lights with the battery in the chain, the fault is in the battery's output or the booth cable, not the venue, and that is worth knowing before guests arrive.
Step three: the flash
Do not touch the horseshoe flash tube with bare skin. Skin oil damages it permanently. The black cover stays on until the flash is on the pole.
- Flash pole out of the case, screwed into the nut on top of the head.
- Pull back the quick-release and rotate the black cover off the flash.
- Reflector dome onto the flash, rotated to lock. Line the slit in the reflector up with the umbrella mount on the flash handle.
- Loosen the large tilt handle, set the pole mount to 90 degrees from the flash, retighten.
- Loosen the small pole-mount knob until the internal screw is not visible looking down the mount.
- Flash onto the pole, bulb facing the back of the booth, tighten the small knob.
- Loosen the large tilt handle again, angle the flash 45 degrees upward, retighten.
- Open the umbrella. Slide its pole through the reflector slit and through the umbrella mount, until about a quarter inch extends past the flash.
The MS300V has an LED modeling disc built in; there is no separate modeling bulb to fit. Our rule from the photography manual: key modeling lamp off at events, because it shines into guests' eyes at the mark.
Step four: flash settings, and the guarantee
- Coiled sync cable into the flash. Flash power cable in.
- Switch on the back to the line position.
- Short-press the volume button to silence the beeps. Do this every time. A beeping flash at a wedding is unprofessional, and at a sensory booking it is disqualifying.
- Set power. The factory default is 1/2. Ours is whatever the meter says at the mark, which with the umbrella is usually 1/4 to 1/2. See the photography manual.
- Turn the wireless receiver off: hold
GR/CHandS1/S2together until the wireless tower icon disappears from the top left of the screen.
Step five is a client promise, not a preference. We tell couples our flash cannot cross-fire with their photographer's. That is only true with the receiver off and the flash wired. Check the icon is gone before the first test fire, at every event.
CHIPS, the printer stand
Only after GUAC is up
Assembly
- Base plate on the floor, longer end facing away from where prints will come out.
- AC cable under the plate and through the hole. If wired printing, the USB cable from GUAC goes through the same hole.
- Cable up through the pole. Seat the pole, tighten both knobs together, then set them to an X.
- Leave a few inches of power cable and about a foot of USB coming out the top.
- Seat the platform on the pole.
- DNP620A onto the platform, rear of the printer snug against the two alignment tabs at the back.
- Pull the power cable out from under the printer, plug it into the back, tuck the slack back under.
- Wired: USB into the printer. Wireless: the platform's own cable into the printer, and the AirConnect procedure on the staff page.
If the platform will not sit, swap in one of the GUAC poles; they are interchangeable. If it still will not sit, it is a support call, not something to force.
Before the first print: empty the cut trimmings tray. It is on the teardown list too, and if it was skipped last time the cutter jams on the first strip of this event.
Printer troubleshooting
The DNP620A, wired and wireless
Keep shooting. Prints catch up.
A stopped printer never stops the booth. Sessions continue, captures are saved, and prints come out once it is fixed. Tell the queue their print is coming, keep taking photos, and fix it between sessions. Never turn people away because of a printer.
Most stoppages are one of three things, and in this order: paper, ribbon, connection. Check them in that order because that is also the order of how often they happen.
The ribbon is what we call the toner. Same thing. A dye-sub printer has no toner; the color is on a ribbon that runs over the paper. Support will say ribbon, the box says ribbon, so this page does too.
Always carry a spare roll and a spare ribbon, together, at every event. They come as a matched pair in one box and they run out together. A booth with no spare is one roll away from not printing, and it is on the load-out list as critical for that reason.
Paper and ribbon
Out of paper, or the roll is nearly out
- Open the front. The paper roll sits on two spindles at the bottom; the ribbon is the cassette above it.
- Lift the old roll out. Drop the new roll in with the paper coming off the top toward the front, and feed the leading edge under the ribbon path until it catches.
- Close the front. The printer feeds and cuts a blank leader on its own. That is normal.
- Empty the cut trimmings tray while the front is open, and look for any strips that have escaped it into the paper path.
Out of ribbon
The ribbon, which we call the toner, runs out slightly before the paper does by design, so a new roll of paper always comes with a new ribbon in the same box. Change them together, every time. A fresh ribbon on an old roll, or the reverse, ends with one of them running out mid-strip, usually with a queue watching.
- Front open, lift the ribbon cassette out by its ends.
- New cassette in, supply spool at the back, take-up at the front, the ribbon running over the top. It only seats one way.
- Close, let it cut a leader.
Log the roll state at teardown, every event. A large event started on a part-used roll is the most avoidable printer failure there is. Fresh roll for anything over about 150 sessions.
Prints per roll is the number the economics model needs and nobody has recorded yet. Count one roll from fresh to empty at a 4x6 event and write it down.
Connection, wired and wireless
Wired, GUAC to CHIPS by USB
- Is the printer on? The front light should be steady. Power cable at the printer and at the strip.
- USB seated at both ends: the printer and the hub inside the GUAC head.
- Let it warm up. A cold DNP takes a minute after power-on before Fiesta can see it. Starting the event too fast is a common false alarm.
- Still not seen: power cycle the printer, wait for the light, then back out of the event in Fiesta and start it again so the System Check re-scans.
- Swap the USB cable for the spare before suspecting the printer.
Wireless, through the AirConnect
The full setup is on the staff page. The three things that go wrong:
- Fiesta shows no printer: the printer has to exist in the AirConnect portal at
192.168.4.1first. If the iPad has drifted onto another network, rejoin the AirConnect's own network and reload the portal. - Strips come out uncut: the print size is set in the portal, not in Fiesta, and it needs the
2 (2 x 6)option. Plain 2x6 does not cut. - Prints are slow: wireless is slower than wired by design. If the queue is building, that is the trade, not a fault.
Wrong output
- Prints come out with the wrong template or someone else's names: last event's template is still loaded. Back out, load the right event, and watch the System Check confirm the assets. This is the single most common printer complaint and it is not the printer.
- Print is cut in the wrong place, or not cut: print size setting. Wired, it is in Fiesta's print settings. Wireless, it is in the AirConnect portal. Strips need the doubled option.
- Colors look off on paper but fine on screen: the ICC profile. PBSCo has a profile for the DS620A; check Fiesta's print settings are using it. Also remember prints run slightly darker and warmer than a screen, which is expected.
- White border or stretched image: the capture ratio does not match the media. The camera should be on Portrait 2:3, which is proportional to 4x6. Anything else stretches or borders.
- Prints coming out marked, creased, skewed, cut short, or just wrong in a way you cannot name: check for trimmings first. The cutter drops a thin strip every print, and when the tray is full or a strip has escaped it, trimmings end up in the paper path, under the roll, or against the cutter. Power off, front open, tray emptied, then look and feel along the whole path for loose strips before closing up. This fixes more "weird prints" than anything else on this page.
- Faint lines or a smear across every print: dust on the thermal head or a scratched ribbon. Check for trimmings, then swap the ribbon. If it persists, it is a support call.
Jams, errors and the spare
- Paper jam: power off, front open, pull the paper back out gently the way it came, never forward through the cutter. Check the trimmings tray is empty; a full tray is the usual cause. Re-feed, power on, let it cut a leader.
- Error light, no obvious cause: power cycle. If it comes back, front open and closed firmly; the door sensor is fussy.
- Cutter jams repeatedly: trimmings tray. It was on the teardown list for a reason.
- Dead, and nothing brings it back: the spare printer goes in. Wired, swap the USB across. Wireless, add it in the AirConnect portal. Then tell Phil before the client hears it from a guest.
Before calling support, have the printer's serial number and know whether it is wired or wireless, because the two paths have completely different fixes and the first thing they will ask is which one you are on.
SALSA 2, the SnapBliss booth
Stationary. The roamer is a different assembly
Assembly
Before starting: iPadOS updated, Fiesta updated, logged into the Fiesta account. Do this at home, not at the venue, because it needs the internet and time.
- Head out of the front of the case, onto the case's fabric flap.
- Base plate, cables and accessories out.
- First pole out. Power cable through the bottom of the base plate, then through the first pole's cable conduit. Fasten the pole to the base plate.
- Second pole: cable through its conduit, fasten to the first pole and the base plate.
- Remaining cable through the rubber grommet at the base of the neck.
- Open the head with the roamer release lever.
- Power cable into the USB-C on the back of the roamer unit.
- Power cable to the power supply, power supply to the extension, extension to the battery, battery to the wall.
- Close the head.
iPad
- Allen wrench from the case. Four screws out, faceplate off.
- USB-C into the iPad. iPad into the front plate.
- Faceplate back on, four screws in.
The factory footprint for SALSA 2 is about 10 ft wide by 5 ft deep, with the booth 3 ft from the backdrop and at least 2 ft behind it for guests to pass. That 3 ft figure is where the earlier guest-mark confusion came from: it is the SnapBliss distance, not the Luxelle one.
A drop-off SALSA 2 gets one chance. Nobody is there to notice a problem, so the test captures at setup are the entire quality check. Take more than you would on a staffed booth, and send one to your own phone to prove delivery works before you leave. The booth joins our hotspot, network luxelle, password luxelleair, unless the client has arranged venue wifi and it has been tested.
The R100 camera
Set once, and what happens when someone resets it
Camera body settings, and the one we deliberately change
Photobooth Supply Co's recommended body settings, from their R100 setup page. Most of these are set once and survive events. They do not survive a factory reset, which is why they are here.
| Setting | Value | Where |
|---|---|---|
| Mode dial | M | Top of the camera. Some menus only appear in Movie mode; set it back to M afterward |
| Image stabilization | Off | Menu 6, IS mode. The camera is on a stand; IS on a stand hunts |
| AF operation | One Shot AF | Shooting, Menu 4 |
| AF method | Face + Tracking, or Zone AF for large groups | Shooting, Menu 4 |
| Continuous AF | Enable | Shooting, Menu 4 |
| Image quality | S1 Fine | Menu 1. Small-fine is plenty for a 4x6 and keeps Fiesta fast |
| Auto power off | Disable | Function, Menu 2, Power saving. A camera that sleeps mid-event looks like a dead booth |
| Display control | Manual | Function, Menu 3, Display settings |
| Movie shooting mode | Manual exposure | Set with the dial on the video icon, then dial back to M |
The one deliberate departure: focus. The factory setting is autofocus with face tracking and continuous AF. The photography manual locks focus manually at the guest mark and tapes the ring. Both work; they solve different problems. Autofocus copes with guests at varying distances and needs no tape, but can hunt in a dark room and miss on a group. Manual at the mark never hunts and is identical every frame, but is wrong for anyone who does not stand on the mark. The manual chose manual because the mark is taped and the lights are metered to it. If the camera is ever reset to factory, it comes back on autofocus, and that is the setting to check first.
If manual focus is the standard, write which way in the event log so a soft gallery can be traced. If autofocus is used for a specific event, say a corporate crowd with no mark, note it the same way and switch the AF method to Zone for the group.
The lens lock, which damages the lens if you skip it
The R100's kit lens retracts. It has to be unlocked and extended to 18 to shoot, and locked back before the camera goes in or out of the GUAC head.
- To shoot: twist the lens counterclockwise firmly until the white dash above the Canon logo sits at 18. You feel a click.
- To install or remove the camera: rotate the lens so 18 is at the logo, then with a bit more force keep rotating until the white dot is at the logo. That is locked.
Unlike the older M50, the R100 has no lock button. The lens can be unlocked easily once the camera is in the booth, and forcing the camera in or out with the lens extended can damage the lens. Lock it every time the camera moves.
Installing the camera in the head
Only needed after a lens change, a repair, or a body swap to the backup. Normal transport keeps the camera in the head.
- Nikon AS-15 adapter into the hot shoe, sync cable screwed into it, cable facing the front, adapter locked.
- Lens locked. Mode dial on M. Battery adapter fitted in place of the battery, its cable fed through the rubber tab.
- Head face down on a clean flat surface, rear door off.
- Rubber washer on the camera rack aligned with the slit, camera nut screwed up through the rack and washer from below.
- Camera onto the rack, nut into the tripod socket, tightened.
- Protective stopper off the top of the head. Sync cable fed through the top.
- Battery adapter cable plugged into the head's battery power cable, securely.
- Camera USB: USB-A end into the hub, USB-C end into the top port on the right side of the camera.
- Camera on. Lens unlocked to 18.
The backup body is EF-M mount and the primary is RF, so they cannot share a lens. If the backup goes in, it goes in with its own lens, and the steps above are the same.
Supported iPads and phones
Which devices work in which booth is on Photobooth Supply Co's Supported Devices page, and it changes as Apple releases models. The faceplates fit specific sizes. Check that page before buying a replacement iPad, and note which model each booth currently carries in the equipment register.
iPad settings
Set once, checked before every event
The twelve settings, and why each one exists
Fiesta runs on a default iPad. These settings are not required, but every one of them prevents a specific failure at an event, and most of those failures look like "the booth stopped working" from across the room. Photobooth Supply Co's page with screenshots for each is here.
| Setting | Where | What it prevents |
|---|---|---|
| Auto-Brightness off | Accessibility, Display & Text Size | The attract screen dimming and brightening as the room changes |
| True Tone off | Display & Brightness | Screen colors shifting warm or cool with the venue lighting |
| Auto-Lock: Never | Display & Brightness | The booth locking itself during a quiet spell |
| Low Power Mode off | Battery | The iPad throttling itself and Fiesta slowing down |
| Full Screen Apps | Multitasking & Gestures | The status bar and dock showing over the attract screen |
| Keep Screen On | Apps, Fiesta | The screen sleeping while Fiesta is open, even with Auto-Lock off |
| Passcode on | Face ID & Passcode | A stolen or left-behind iPad being an open door. Not Touch ID. Different from the Guided Access code and the event passcode |
| Find My on | Apple ID, Find My | A drop-off kiosk going missing with no way to locate or lock it |
| Do Not Disturb on | Focus | A notification popping over a guest's session |
| Photos access for Fiesta | Privacy & Security, Photos | Fiesta unable to save captures or load a template. Only appears after Fiesta first asks |
| Bluetooth access for Fiesta | Privacy & Security, Bluetooth | The SALSA 2 LED ring not responding to the app |
| Local Network access for Fiesta | Privacy & Security, Local Network | Wireless printing through the AirConnect not finding the printer |
Two of these are the drop-off insurance. A passcode and Find My are what stand between a SALSA 2 left overnight at a client's venue and an iPad that is simply gone. Your insurer excludes theft by someone you entrusted the equipment to, so the iPad's own security is the only protection there is.
Restarting the iPad, and what happens after
Restarting it inside the booth
The iPad's power button is on its top edge, and once the iPad is in the booth the shell covers it. There is a small opening in the shell that lines up with the button, and it only admits a toothpick. That is why a toothpick lives in each booth kit and never leaves it.
- Toothpick through the opening, press and hold the power button until the power-off slider appears on screen. On newer iPads, hold the top button and a volume button together.
- Slide to power off. Wait a full ten seconds.
- Toothpick again, press and hold until the Apple logo appears.
- Unlock with the passcode, open Fiesta, sign in if it asks.
If the toothpick is missing, a straightened paperclip works but scratches. A pen does not fit. Do not try to lift the faceplate to reach the button; that is four screws and an Allen wrench for something a toothpick does in five seconds.
Assets re-download after a restart. Budget for it.
Every time Fiesta is opened fresh, the iPad is restarted, or the event configuration is changed, the event's assets have to download again before the event can start: the template, the overlay, the attract screen, any intro video. On the hotspot that takes a minute or two for a simple event and longer for one with video. It is not stuck; it is downloading.
Fiesta runs a System Check screen when you start the event. It confirms the assets are downloaded, whether it can see the printer, whether Guided Access is running, and other readiness items. Watch it to the end. It can be skipped, and skipping it is how an event opens with last week's template or no printer. If an item is not green, fix it before opening the booth, not after the first guest.
- Assets not downloaded: wait. If it stalls, check the iPad is actually online, then back out to the dashboard and start again.
- Printer not recognized: see the printer section below before touching anything else.
- Guided Access not detected: the setting is on but no session is running. Triple-click the top button with Fiesta open.
This is why configuration changes are made the day before, on the laptop, and not at the venue. A change at the venue costs a download at the venue, on the hotspot, with guests arriving.
Fiesta will not start an event: the license
The symptom: you can open Fiesta, see the event, configure it, but there is no option to start it. Everything looks normal except the one button that matters.
What it means: this iPad does not currently hold a Fiesta license. A license is what lets an iPad start an in-person event; configuring does not need one. Each license is assigned to one iPad when that iPad logs into the Fiesta app, and it stays assigned until the device is removed from the account. So the license is almost always sitting on another device.
In order, cheapest first
- Internet. The app has to reach the account to confirm the license. Check the iPad is on the hotspot and actually online, then close and reopen Fiesta.
- Which account is logged in. Sign out of Fiesta and sign back into our account. A previous login on this iPad to a trial or a different account will show events you cannot start.
- Where the license went. On the laptop, open the Fiesta web app, Account Management, Devices. Every iPad holding a license is listed. If a second iPad, an old one, or a phone used for testing is on that list, it is holding the license this booth needs. Remove it. The license frees immediately. Then sign the booth iPad out and back in.
- How many licenses we have. One license runs one in-person event at a time. The sharing station does not use a license. If GUAC and SALSA 2 are both running full events at the same time at different venues, that is two licenses, and we need to own two. Check the subscription in Account Management.
- The subscription itself. If billing lapsed, nothing starts. That also shows in Account Management, and it is Customer Success, not Customer Experience, who fixes it: software@photoboothsupplyco.com.
This is one of the things the laptop is for. Account Management is a web page, and removing a stale device from the list takes thirty seconds on a laptop and is awkward on the booth iPad. Do it before guests arrive; the sharing station and the event configuration are fine while you sort it, the booth just cannot open.
Prevent it: never log into Fiesta on a spare device to test something and leave it logged in. That device will silently take the license, and the booth will refuse to start at the next event. If you have to test on another device, sign it out afterward, or remove it from Devices the same day.
Guided Access, the one that matters most at a drop-off
Guided Access locks the iPad to one app. With Fiesta running, a guest cannot leave the app, cannot open Settings, and cannot minimize anything. It also reopens Fiesta after a crash and can set a time limit.
- Turn it on in Settings, Accessibility, Guided Access, with its own passcode.
- Open Fiesta.
- Triple-click the top button to start the session. Fiesta's System Check only shows Guided Access as enabled once a session is actually running, not when the setting is merely on.
Three separate passcodes: the iPad's own, the Guided Access code, and the Fiesta event passcode. Keep them different. The iPad code protects the device, the Guided Access code lets you out of the locked app, the event passcode protects the event settings from a curious guest.
Start a Guided Access session on every SALSA 2 drop-off, without exception. An unattended kiosk that a guest can exit is a kiosk that will be found on the home screen, or in Settings, or off.
When to check them
- After any iPadOS update. Updates reset some of these, Auto-Lock and Full Screen Apps in particular.
- After any Fiesta update, since new permissions can appear.
- On the day-before prep, alongside charging and clearing media. Fiesta's System Check screen flags several of them and takes thirty seconds.
- Before leaving a drop-off kiosk: passcode, Find My, Guided Access session running.
"Why is my iPad going to sleep during the event" is the most common question on their support site, and the answer is always Auto-Lock or Keep Screen On.
Teardown
Reverse order, power first
GUAC down
Confirm the last session is done with the client or coordinator before anything is switched off. Never pack early in front of guests.
- iPad off, through the iPad's own settings.
- Rear door off, onto a flat surface.
- Camera off, power switch on top.
- Flash off, switch on the back.
- Unplug the booth from the wall.
- Sync and power cables off the flash.
- Black cover back onto the flash, secured with the quick-release. Then the flash comes off the pole, the pole unscrews from the head.
- Umbrella, flash, reflector and flash pole into the case.
- Head off the poles. Foam insert on top of the poles before the head goes in, then head into the case front-down.
- Poles off the base plate, cable pulled through, everything into the case.
The camera can stay in the head for transport. Only remove it if there is a reason.
CHIPS and SALSA 2 down
CHIPS
- Printer off, unplugged. Empty the cut trimmings tray.
- Printer off the platform, into its case. Platform off the pole, pole off the base plate, cables through.
- Note the roll state for the next booking: fresh, or how much is left.
SALSA 2
- Fiesta closed, iPad off.
- Unplug from the wall first, then power supply, then the USB-C from the roamer unit.
- Head open with the release lever, cable out, head closed.
- Poles off, cable pulled back through both conduits and the base plate.
- Head into the front of the case, then base plate, poles, cables.
Count every cable and clamp against the load-out list before the vehicle door closes. The sync cable, the small knobs and the Allen wrench are the three things that get left on a venue floor.
Leaving the room
- Tape lifted from the floor. All of it, including the guest mark.
- Props collected, including the ones that walked to other tables.
- Floor as you found it.
- Equipment inspected as it loads. Damage is easier to sort tonight than next week.
- Thank the venue contact on the way out. Venues recommend vendors who are easy at midnight.
Photobooth Supply Co support
Who to call, and how long a replacement takes
Three teams, and which one you want
Customer Experience, for anything technical
The team to call when a booth, printer or the Fiesta app is misbehaving.
- Email: support@photoboothsupplyco.com
- Phone: 949-444-2752, extension 1
- Support site: support.photoboothsupplyco.com. The assembly videos, the Fiesta guides and the print settings all live there.
Customer Success, for the account and for training
Software account questions, billing, and one-on-one training sessions. Not the number for a broken booth.
- Email: software@photoboothsupplyco.com
- Success calls are booked through their site.
Sales
Our rep is Flavio Inzurriaga, flavio@photoboothsupplyco.com. He is the contact for a next booth, and for anything where it is unclear who to ask. As a returning customer, go through him rather than the website.
At an event, the only number that matters is Customer Experience, extension 1. Before calling, have the serial number ready; it is on the device and the support site has an article on where to find it for each booth.
The laptop
A charged laptop travels to every event, for emergencies. Some configuration changes cannot be made from the iPad mid-event: a Fiesta account setting, a template that has to be rebuilt, a print size in the AirConnect portal that is easier on a full screen, or a support call where they need to see the dashboard. The laptop is how those get fixed at the venue instead of after it.
It is on the load-out list as critical for that reason. Charged before leaving, and the Fiesta login already saved on it.
Replacement lead times, and what they mean for us
- Salsa 2: ships in 1 business day.
- Guac, including the printer: ships in about 1 week.
- Chips stand alone: ships in about 3 weeks.
Delivery is FedEx and requires a signature, so someone has to be home.
A dead GUAC is a one-week gap plus transit. With one booth and one booking per date, that is every Luxelle event in that window. The spare camera body, the spare strobe and the spare printer exist to make most failures a same-night fix rather than a week-long one; the booth shell itself has no spare. Worth knowing when reading the equipment register.
The Chips stand at three weeks is the longest wait in the kit. If the stand fails, the printer still works on a table with the AirConnect, so it is a workaround rather than a lost event.
